Pitti Uomo: Florence and the Future of Menswear
17 June 2025
Pitti Uomo in Florence is where menswear shows its hand. Unlike the major fashion weeks, Pitti is built around menswear specifically — the brands, the buyers, the obsessives who care about the weight of a cotton and the roll of a collar.
This June\'s edition confirmed what I\'ve been seeing with clients: the move away from streetwear-influenced suiting toward something more rooted. Earth tones, natural fibres, garments that improve with wearing. The peacocking that Pitti was once known for has mellowed into something more assured.
The Fortezza da Basso is always overwhelming — hundreds of exhibitors across multiple halls. The trick is knowing where to look. I spent time with smaller Italian makers, many family-run for generations, whose work rivals anything at ten times the price from a luxury house.
For clients building a wardrobe, Pitti reinforces a simple truth: fewer, better things. A linen jacket from a Neapolitan workshop. A pair of trousers cut properly. Shoes that will last a decade. The men who dress best here dress simply. The clothes just happen to be exceptional.
This June\'s edition confirmed what I\'ve been seeing with clients: the move away from streetwear-influenced suiting toward something more rooted. Earth tones, natural fibres, garments that improve with wearing. The peacocking that Pitti was once known for has mellowed into something more assured.
The Fortezza da Basso is always overwhelming — hundreds of exhibitors across multiple halls. The trick is knowing where to look. I spent time with smaller Italian makers, many family-run for generations, whose work rivals anything at ten times the price from a luxury house.
For clients building a wardrobe, Pitti reinforces a simple truth: fewer, better things. A linen jacket from a Neapolitan workshop. A pair of trousers cut properly. Shoes that will last a decade. The men who dress best here dress simply. The clothes just happen to be exceptional.